looking at a 32`
06-13-2016 | 09:09 PM
#31
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 760
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From: Jacksonville, FL
What drives are you running? Ext boxes, shorties? Just curious as I'm getting ready to put a 97 32 back in the water with 550 each side running -3 Ext boxes and -2 imco shorties on XRs. I'm starting with P5 31's turned down to 30s- sounds like you may have a similar setup. If 88mph is in my future I'll be pretty damn happy.
06-14-2016 | 09:13 AM
#32
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: New Kent, VA
No- I was referring to the person that runs 88 on theirs. I'm building one now that should be done soon and was just looking for something to compare it to.
07-07-2016 | 08:33 PM
#33
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From: Long Lake, MN
When did AT remove wood from the hull construction. When wood transom and stringers need to be replaced, can these boats be somehow converted over to use no wood? (what is used in place of wood)?
07-07-2016 | 10:16 PM
#34
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From: Worldwide
1997-ish was when Pat cut over to no wood. It's Divinycell foam in place of wood that is used. Your best bet is to run the exact boat you are looking at by Pat directly, and he can answer better.
07-08-2016 | 10:36 AM
#35
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From: Long Lake, MN
This is probably a silly idea, but some times these work out 
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry.
Anyone tried this?
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry.
Anyone tried this?
07-09-2016 | 05:20 PM
#36
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 97
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From: Sacandaga Lake NY
This is probably a silly idea, but some times these work out
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry.
Anyone tried this?
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry.
Anyone tried this?
07-09-2016 | 08:06 PM
#37
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,484
Likes: 5
From: ft. myers, fl.
This is probably a silly idea, but some times these work out
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry.
Anyone tried this?
If I could open the fiberglass on the top of the transom and drill out the rotted wood sandwiched between the fiberglass, would it be possible to shoot some divinycell into the transom where the wood was and get an extremely sturdy transom out of the deal. I suspect I would need to re-fiberglass the top of the transom except for a small hole to insert the foam into. I am viewing this much like the insulation in a can where it expands to fill gaps. If this works and it was substantially cheaper and/or better than the alternative of cutting off the back of the boat and rebuilding it, there might be a sizable market for this in the boating industry.
Anyone tried this?
07-11-2016 | 08:51 PM
#38
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,233
Likes: 1
From: pa
no boxes just bravo lwps spinning 30 b1s but my boat went over 90 when pat built it back in 2000 i would consider selling it as i dont use it near as much last few years but had it out over the 4th weekend still runs like new and 87 88 on gps boat has alot of extras done to it when built and i must say it is bad ass
